False Lashes 101: What You Don’t Know

Ladies and gentlemen, please allow me to introduce myself~ (Drum rolls please~) *Drum rolls* My name is Tina, nice to meet you all! I am a freelance makeup artist in Toronto and the blogger of Beautiliciously In (beautiliciouslyin.blogspot.ca/). I contacted Sarah to be a guest blogger for Xlicious Girl, as I fell in love with the blog the first time visiting it. After being accepted as a guest blogger, I came up with tons of ideas on what to write for my first post. Some of the ideas I had ranged from natural makeup tutorial to a full makeup or skin care line review. After watching a few videos on makeup, I decided to do a post on false lashes for my first post. Not only is it an inspiration from the videos, also as a tribute to my first interaction with Xlicious Girl, as my first time viewing Xlicious Girl was due to a stumble while researching on false lashes. It was a great stumble~

Now… the topic…

(Please be prepared… this is an extremely long post to fit everything I can think of in)

False lashes, the topic that some loves yet some dreads. I will provide you information on the different types of false lashes, the types of glue available, the tools available, and the steps to applying false lashes. I promise, after reading this post you will all become experts in false lashes. If not, don’t hesitate to contact me, we can do some false lashes lessons together.

I’ve broken this tutorial down to several steps, which may seem like a whole lot, however, it really isn’t. Most of it are very informational and talks about choosing the type of lashes, which, I believe many of us do without thinking about the process of it. The last step is the actual application, which is broken down further into smaller steps.

If you’ve gotten your false lashes prepared and feel you don’t need to learn about the types of false lashes, glue, and tools available, please don’t hesitate to scroll down to the steps of applying false lashes. However, I do in between give little tips here and there *hint hint*.


STEP 1: Types of False Lashes

There are four main types of false lashes:

  • singles (individual)
  • clusters
  • 1/2, 1/3, 1/4 strip
  • full strip

The clusters and strips are more popularly used than the singles, as the singles are typically more time consuming and more challenging to apply.

Singles or also known as individuals, are individual lashes that are to be applied one by one. These are more time consuming and challenging to apply; however, are typically more naturally looking than the other ones. Singles can be applied to areas of which are more sparse and added one by one as desired.

Tip, please use individual lash glue for these, as that will ensure them to stay put and not fall out.

Clusters, as picture above, are lashes that are “clustered”. As oppose to the full strip, as picture below, they can be easily applied to areas of which more volume is desired. These are less time consuming than the individual lashes, yet still quite natural looking. The ones in the picture are considered clusters, however, there are also ones with shorter stem and more lashes on the stems.

Full strip — picture above — is literally a “full strip” of lashes. It is generally not made to customize to anyone, unless you are lucky enough to have eyes that are big enough to simply take the lashes and apply or you’ve gotten your false lashes custom made. These can generally be bought in pairs, five pairs, or ten pairs; and of course there are also companies who sells them in threes and et cetera.

Full strips can easily be made into 1/2, 1/3, and 1/4 strips. All you need to do is to cut them, or of course you can decide on purchasing the already pre-cut 1/2, 1/3, or 1/4 strips.

1/2 strips –picture above — can easily be made by cutting a full strip in half. These are typically applied to the last half of the eyes. This is the type that I usually wear, as I find these more natural and suits my eye shape the best. Aside from applying only to the last half of the eyes, you can also apply two 1/2 strips to your eye, which will look more natural than applying a full strip.

Tip, cutting a full strip into halves and applying as halves are actually more comfortable.

1/3 strips — as pictured in the picture above a comparison of half strip (top) to the 1/3 strip (bottom) — can be made by simply cutting a full strip false lashes into thirds. These are typically applied starting from the outer corner of the eyes. There are no rules as to how many you are to apply, you can do whatever your little heart desires.

Tip, applying 1/3 strips is fairly easy and it appears very natural.

1/4 strip — bottom of picture above, in comparison to 1/3 strip — can be achieved by cutting a full strip into quarters. These are extremely comfortable to wear as oppose to full strips.


STEP 2: False Lashes Styles

If you’ve chosen to go with the full, 1/2, 1/3, 1/4 strips, besides choosing the type of lashes, you are also to choose the style. There are typically two styles:

On the right, are crossed lashes. On the left, are straight lashes. I can’t find a way to better explain these, but “crossed lashes are crossed” and “straight lashes are straight”. Please do forgive my lack of explanation for the styles of lashes.

Besides your typical two styles, you may also find special effect lashes. Some has feather, some are made of paper, some are colored, et cetera.

The lashes in the picture above are made of paper.


STEP 3: Volume and Type

Along with the types and styles, you can also choose the volume that you would like. There are lashes that are more sparse and natural and also the ones that are very dense and very doll and/or cat like.

When you’re deciding on which to purchase and if you can touch the lashes, push the lashes up and position it as if they are already applied on your eyes and imagine how they may look like on your eyes. They typically will look like how you have imagined them when you did your “push up check“.


STEP 4: Peduncle

Next, after you have chosen the type of false lashes and if you’ve decided on a full strip, please consider on whether you would like to use the ones with clear peduncle or black peduncle. Peduncle is the “stem” that the lashes are attached to, these can be clear or white and soft or stiff depending on the type you purchase.

As the picture above, the clear peduncle (left) tend to appear more natural than the black (right). If you are a beginner, probably better to use a clear peduncle, as if you were to make any mistake it is less noticeable.

The soft-stiffness of the peduncle depends on preference. Generally softer peduncles are preferred as they are more comfortable and prolongs the wear time. Another pro of a soft peduncle is its ability to adjust to eye movements, thus prevents the ends of the lashes from popping out.

I personally like to use softer peduncles with either clear or black peduncle, depending on how I feel. There are days that I use clear peduncle lashes and there are days that I use black peduncle lashes. The black peduncle false lashes can be pretended to be eyeliners; however, some prefer not to use it as liner.

The clear peduncles usually are stiffer than black, however, it can be easily softened by folding it in half and pinching it, then fold it into quarters and pinching it.

Another thing, when you choose your false lashes, you may come upon those that are more synthetic with a plastic feel and some that are softer and more hair like. Most false lashes are synthetic, of course there are also many that are natural human hair. It is not necessary to purchase natural human hair, however, it is best to choose ones that are more hair like. The softer the lashes are the more natural it will look.


STEP 5: Types of Glue (Adhesive)

There are three types of glue, your typical clear-whitedark toned, and individual lash glue.

The clear-white and dark toned glues are for strip lashes, where individual lash glues are specifically for individual lashes. The clear-white and dark toned glues can be used with any types of false lashes, as they can be easily removed with warm water and/or makeup remover (there are times that I get lazy and simply slowly peel them off on my chair while watching TV… terrible example though). Individual lash glues are specifically for individual false lashes as these are extremely adhesive and can only be removed with lash adhesive removers. PLEASE, with a strawberry on top, don’t use individual lash adhesives with strip lashes. I repeat, please don’t use individual lash glues with strip lashes! As if you do, it is not as easy to remove these than to remove your regular clear-white or dark toned adhesives. You can go ahead to use individual lash glue, if you decide to purchase lash glue remover along with it, however, I wouldn’t recommend doing so.

How do you know if you’re buying the right adhesives? Well, generally adhesives for strip lashes are either white or dark tone, which dries clear or black. Whereas the lash adhesives for individual lashes are clear, and dries clear. However, there are cases where strip lash glues are clear, like the ones by Quo. Thus, it is best to look carefully on the packaging, as they will indicate which type of lashes they are for.

Let me summarize the use of lash adhesives for you.

  • Clear-White Glue: Clusters, Full Strips, 1/2 Strips, 1/3 Strips, 1/4 Strips, Individual
  • Dark Tone Glue: Clusters, Full Strips, 1/2 Strips, 1/3 Strips, 1/4 Strips, Individual
  • Individual Lash Glue: Single Lashes

Thus, according to above, what it really mean is, you can use clear-white and dark tone glue on any type of lashes. Whereas, individual lash glues can only be used for single lashes.

Another thing on lash adhesive is the consistency, some tend to be runnier than others. The runnier the glue the longer it takes to dry and vice versa. If you are a beginner and need more time, you may want to use a glue that is more watery in consistency. If you are an expert and/or is fairly quick at applying false lashes, you may want to use an adhesive that is thicker in consistency. However, it is all up to you, whatever and whichever you are more comfortable with is the best.


STEP 6: Types of Tools Available

There are many types of tools that are available to apply false lashes. I personally prefer to use my hand and if there are places where I need a little re-positioning I will use a regular tweezer.

You can choose to apply your false lashes with a regular tweezer, a special tweezer, or a special tool designed for applying false lashes.

No matter which way you choose to work with, it is totally up to you. A little reminder though, if you are using the special tool, please keep in mind that not everyone’s eye shape are the same as the way the tools are designed; thus, it may actually take time to get use to using it.


STEP 7: Ways to apply false lashes

People typically apply false lashes from the top, however, a little trick is to apply from the bottom. I don’t always use the bottom method, however, if you would like an extremely natural look this is an amazing option.

A pro of applying from top is that it easier than applying from bottom. A con is, if you don’t apply close enough to your lash line, the false lashes may appear visible.

Pro of applying from the bottom is its invisibility and it appears very natural. A con is that it is more challenging to apply, however, if you get used to it, you should be able to apply your false lashes quite quickly.


STEP 8: Steps to Applying False Lashes

To apply false lashes, the basic tools recommended are shown in the picture above. Which consists of your pair of false lashes, scissor, glue, tweezer, eyeliner, and mascara.

Before starting, make sure that you have a clean canvas to work on and apply your skin care products. Then your makeup. If you have dark circles, make sure you cover them up with concealer, because false lashes can sometimes make the dark circles appear darker if you don’t cover them up.


6 PRE-STEPS: Eye Makeup 

You may choose to apply eyeliner and mascara prior to applying false lashes, or apply them after applying false lashes. I usually apply eyeliner and mascara before applying false lashes, then add a little mascara to bind my lashes with the false lashes and touch up on eyeliner if needed.


Step 1

Remove your false lashes from its container and give it a little wiggle to soften the peduncle.

Step 2

After wiggling and jiggling your false lashes a little to soften the peduncle, you may want to trim the false lashes to “customize” it for your eyes.

First, if your false lashes came in packs with more than one pair, you may need to trim the ends off.

Next, you would want to measure the false lashes against your eyes and determine how much you need to trim off.

Then, you trim the false lashes according to the length that you would like the false lashes to be. And do the same for the other side by matching the starting point of the one to be trimmed to the end of the one that has already been trimmed.


Like the not so good “diagram” above.


Step 3

Then apply your lash adhesive to the peduncle of your false lashes. If you are not a fast worker, simply do one at a time. If you work fast, then apply the adhesive on both.

After waiting for a few seconds, the glue will become a little tacky, which is when you would want to apply the lashes.

The trick to prevent the ends from popping out is to apply a little more adhesive here than the rest, however, only slightly more.


Step 4

Then apply your false lashes as close to your own lashes as possible, giving it a little pressure — when I say a little I mean it, please don’t poke around your eye area — to adhere it.

For this step, some likes to apply starting from the middle then position the false lashes. I personally wear 1/2 strips, so I usually apply starting from the back then position other areas.

It is often said that starting from the centre is easier than the other ways, however, I don’t find it so when I’m applying full strips. It is all preference based, after several practices you may find one way better for you than the other. All up to you, there’s no way that’s better than the other.


Step 5

At this point, we are almost done the process. This step requires you to re-position the false lashes. What is it that you are trying to do? Well, you are trying to reposition the lashes so it is as close to your lash line as possible and to make sure that the false lashes are properly adhered so they don’t fall or pop off.


Step 6

At this last step, for those who have chosen to apply eyeliner and mascara here, it is the time to do so.

Because I have already done so, I will only bind my lashes and do touch ups. To bind your lashes, simply apply a coat of mascara and using your lash curler gently press to bind them.

Tips, do use your lash curler prior to applying mascara, hopefully none of you forgot about that. If you are like me, then before applying mascara I would use the curler. This actually allows your own lashes to curl a bit, which after applying mascara will help support the false lashes. After applying false lashes, simply apply another coat of mascara and with your lash curler bind your lashes together.

And~~~ *Drum rolls* You’re done!!!


My favorite false lashes and lash adhesives!

I’ve been using false lashes routinely for about three years now. I’ve tried various types of lashes and glue, however, I’ve always gone back to “those particular ones”.

For adhesive, I really like the Ardell LashGrip. As for lashes, I really like the following styles: #217 (clear peduncle), #218 (black peduncle), #P26 (black peduncle), #015 (black peduncle), #111 (black peduncle).

I am currently out of the #P26, so I’m not able to show you them.

I find Ardell LashGrip perfect as the consistency is slightly thicker than the other ones, yet still allows time for you to apply.

I usually purchase my false lashes in boxes, each box with 10 pairs. After going through tons of them, the styles that I’ve listed are the ones that I finish first. Out of the five that I’ve listed, one is clear peduncle and the rest are black; however, all of them are quite soft and comfortable to wear.

Something that I would like to mention before I take my bow… PLEASE if you love your eyes, don’t reuse your false lashes! Unless you are able to fully sterilize them, then don’t use it. And no, spraying alcohol does not kill germs neither does soaking them in alcohol.

Alcohol can only demote the speed of bacterial multiplication. You’re not killing them at all. If you try putting them in disinfectants, the most bacteria you can kill is 95%; however, those chemicals are highly irritating and extremely unsafe to put around your eyes. If you’ve got a sterilizer at home, perhaps you can try… but, hopefully they don’t melt under the heat or break under extreme cold.

Anyways, that is all for today. Hope you all have learned something from this and are now experts at false lashes. If not, please don’t hesitate to contact me through my blog.

Beautiliciously In: beautiliciouslyin.blogspot.ca/

P.S. I apologize for the poor quality of the photos. I took the pictures with my phone because my camera is nowhere to be found.

4 Replies to “False Lashes 101: What You Don’t Know”

  1. Wow this was so informing! I’m quite a newbie with false lashes, but this helped me a lot 🙂 i think the most common mistake is to reuse false lashes – I’ve reusing them usually 3-4 times before I throw them – because japanese false lashes are so expensive (°̥̥̥̥̥̥̥̥ω°̥̥̥̥̥̥̥̥ ) it’s that so bad? D:

    1. yay, glad that this post has helped at least one person out there! i never had any sort of guide when i started trying out false eyelashes.

      hmmm… and i always reuse false lashes… and i still do even after reading this post about not using them. i agree, japanese lashes are really pricey!! i love dolly wink lashes because they last so long.. im not kidding ive used the same pair at least 2 dozen times. but now i’ve switched to lashes that i’ve bought from ebay. they come in boxes with 10, and can be bought for $1-3 per box!! you should check those out, and you won’t have to reuse them as much since they are so much cheaper!!!

    2. シャルミン says: Reply

      I think it’s totally fine to reuse lashes, i’ve used mine for over a year. As long as you clean off the mascara and glue residue. And if it looks good, why not? They’re meant to be reused anyways. and just a warning, please don’t use regular eyelash curlers on your diamond lashes, those synthetic ones get a crimp on them with regular curlers and they’ll look horrible… use partial eyelash curler on your japanese lashes.

      1. thanks for your input! you know what, i don’t even curl false eyelashes. i don’t see the point in it since they are already curled. the only thing i’ll ever do is sometimes add mascara to help clump my natural lashes together with the false ones and make it look like it has even more voume 😀

Leave a comment, I'd love to hear from you

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.